Is there a standard definition of the densities in hair systems? Different companies are saying different things.

Hair2019

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I am looking at getting a custom hair system, around the same density a my current stock system, which was sold to me as a 'medium - medium/light' density.

I was looking at a few different suppliers, and I see they have different definitions of how dense 'light', 'medium' etc is. It seems that they state the density as a percentage, whatever that means.

Northwest Lace, for example state the densities and percentages as follows:

  • Extra Light: 60%
  • Light: 80%
  • Medium Light: 100%
  • Medium: 120%
  • Medium Heavy: 130%
  • Heavy: 150%
  • Extra Heavy: 180%
Whereas Toplace state them like this:

  • Extra Light: 40 - 45%
  • Light: 50 - 55%
  • Medium: 60 - 65%
  • Medium Heavy: 70 -75%
  • Heavy: 80 - 90%
  • Extra Heavy: 90% +
As you can see, there is quite a difference in how these 2 companies describe the different densities. Is there therefore no standard percentage definition across the hair system industry of what each type of density is? Why is this? That could get pretty confusing, because if someone orders a 'medium density' system with one company but then changes suppliers and asks them for 'medium density', they could end up with a totally different density as previously.

Can anyone explain what the percentage figure means and how I can get a custom system to match the same density as my current stock unit?
 

albar05

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From what i have learnt myself , a normal Stock system class as light - medium is around 90% ... medium light is around 110-110% and a medium is around 120%... i usually only use between 90-110% .. and i find 100% density best for movement and styling of the hair. but thats just my preference. 120% is way to dense. and 90% can be quite low on density , so i stick to 100 or 110% as its a good density in my eyes. :) hope that helps.
 

Hair2019

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Ok thanks for the info. I reckon around 100% density would be fine for me. I was wondering that the % figure actually means, i.e. '100%' of what?
 

albar05

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Ok thanks for the info. I reckon around 100% density would be fine for me. I was wondering that the % figure actually means, i.e. '100%' of what?
i take it to mean 100% density as per the look of the hair quantity when styled i guess. you can def see a difference in styling and look of hair that is 90% as compare to 100-110% .. there is alot more flow to the hair and it has more weight to it.. so it needs good stying and cutting in .. or can look heavy. 90% density i think you can get away with less worry about having the best cut in and not that much styling. I wear 100% and you have to spend more time keeping it looking good, i wear my hair longet in the front to around 6-7ins so its it very floppy without proper attention .. :)
 

Hair2019

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i take it to mean 100% density as per the look of the hair quantity when styled i guess. you can def see a difference in styling and look of hair that is 90% as compare to 100-110% .. there is alot more flow to the hair and it has more weight to it.. so it needs good stying and cutting in .. or can look heavy. 90% density i think you can get away with less worry about having the best cut in and not that much styling. I wear 100% and you have to spend more time keeping it looking good, i wear my hair longet in the front to around 6-7ins so its it very floppy without proper attention .. :)

I have longer hair anyway so I like to have more flow and ability to style the hair. I think my current stock system is around 90% or 100% density but I cannot remember for sure. I did not need to cut it in, I just resized the base to my template and it was fine.
 

BaldBearded

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I have worked with 7-8 factories, and NON of them use the Toplace definitions of density.

The NWL is more akin to what I am familiar with.
 

grincher

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There is no universal density scale.

It often comes down to the supplier's QC as knotters work from their own approx vision.

A good supplier would work off your need / a natural look and transform that into their density scale then work with their factory to make it. A bad supplier wont give a F&&!
 

albar05

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There is no universal density scale.

It often comes down to the supplier's QC as knotters work from their own approx vision.

A good supplier would work off your need / a natural look and transform that into their density scale then work with their factory to make it. A bad supplier wont give a F&&!
With that in mind, how do they do stock systems, when they advertise them as 90% or 100% density , is that not based on making the system with say a dedicated number of strands ? or is that too much extra work ? is it just winging it ?
 

grincher

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In my experience from different suppliers a 100% at one place can be the equivalent of 130% or 80% elsewhere but still the same density in the hand.

I only know from pre-covid days when I was looking for a stock piece I was told many were made around medium density for the broadest market.

It was unlikely a man would need more and it was expected that it could be thinned - not easy to keep it natural. I had to hunt around for something lighter in lace.
 
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